Monday, August 31, 2009

On the Road-Jasper Alberta

August 31, 2009

Mount Edith Cavell and Angel Glacier

We left before 8:00 a.m. to start down Icefield Parkway a bit to reach the entrance to Mt. Edith Cavell. Actually we had thought that it was 7:00 because we had not noticed that the time had changed to Rocky Mountain Time. The road up to the trail head was windy and seemed to take forever to reach a parking area for our walk. It was close to 5000 feet above sea level. Our first walk led us up and very close to this mountain. It is named for a British nurse who was executed during WWII for helping prisoners of war in Belguim escape. The walk out to the glacier pond and the visions of what is left of the glacier took about an hour. On the way we saw several different ground squirrels and a full grown Marmut stuffing himself with a large bunch of grass. We also some evergreens that had were apparently in a fire and the bottom half of these trees is burned black and the tops are green. We also saw instances of new vegetation peeking up through Rocky(where landslides carried down rock) or burned out areas. I expected it to be very cold by the glacier but it was warm. This glacier and many others in North America formed about 400 years ago during a mini ice age. In 1951 there was still enough of the glacier that snow covered some of the area that were clear for walking today. water runs down the steep mountain as the glacier melts. Angel Pond is the result of melting glacier water running down and pieces of the glacier breaking off and falling into the pond. While we were there, a piece of the glacier right above the pond kept calving and dropping ice into the pond with a big splash which reverberated through the woods like the sound of a gunshot or firecrackers.

The second walk that we took went up much higher and showed us higher views of the mountain and the landscape up there was more meadows with wildflowers as well as the evergreens. On the walk down from this second hike, we walked with this woman that had gone to library school about the same time that I did and we got to talk about the changes that were going on for libraries.

After our hiking we went to the Post Office to mail some souvenirs off to the kids and I was surprised to be handed customs sheets to be filled out for each package.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

On the Road-Victria BC-Jasper Alberta



LEAVING VICTORIA

Saturday Aug. 29th

We were warned that we better not take our car to the ferry too early on a Saturday morning or we would have to wait a long time. So we left in time to catch the 11:00 ferry and managed to get on the 1:00. For one thing there was an AC-DC concert in Vancouver on Saturday and it seemed that every young person on Vancouver Island wa aboard a ferry for this concert. When we landed back on the mainland(near Vancouver) we drove through what appeared to be uninhabited areas for long miles on the road and once in a while there would be a town. We stopped for the evening in a place called Merritt BC. It had very weak Internet connectivity and a Chinese restaurant that was terrible. We began our drive north and east to get to get to Jasper in the province of Alberta. All along the road were trees-a lot were dead- and beautiful mountains with striations of different colors horizontally on the rocks. Peaks of snow were often visible. Lots of reminders for snow tires or chains and gates that close off the road in winter.

JASPER ALBERTA

We drove many hours and we finally reached Jasper which is a national park. Before you enter the park ever one must pay a fee. You pay a fee for each day that you plan to be in the parks until you reach seven days and that buys you an annual pass. We drove into the park and we came upon the city/town of Jasper. Jasper is right in the middle of the park and the ranger station is right in the middle of town. David and I were delighted to see what a beautiful almost magical looking town that it was. All kinds of shops and restaurants line the first couple streets.

I was feeling as though we are doing a very long journey but that was before I met Albert and Marilyn. This couple who lives in Lincoln shire England bought themselves a motorcycle, flew themselves and the cycle to Anchorage, and are driving to Argentina. They have been on the road for just 3 weeks and re having a ball. Also at our hotel are a lovely couple named Gordon and Dorothy and they are in their 8o0's and are doing a road trip all across Western Canada.

Friday, August 28, 2009

;ontheroad-Victoria BC

August 28, 2009

MINIATURE WORLD

Located in Victoria's prime hotel, the Empress(built by some more of those RR magnates) is a museum of dioramas depicting varied things. As you enter, there is a dark hallway that displays in virtual fashion futuristic time travel. Then you proceed down a series of hallways that have the dioramas inside glass covering along both sides of the hallways. The exhibits begin with detailed depictions of past battles which include battlefields and razed civilian buildings. Battles were from WWII, WWI, Civil War of U.S., Revolutionary War of U.S., Napoleonic Wars and replications of pioneer days includeing Indians stampeding buffalo in order to use there meat and hides.; and a working sawmill with everything cut in one inch to one foot scale with machines perfectly cutting , turnikng, and stacking wood. One finally reaches the hallways of fantasy. There is a fine diarama of Snow White and her 7 Dwarves, Jack and the Beanstalk and the Old Woman who lived in the shoe. After that a large sections depicting some Dickens. There is a window for Oliver Ywist, Great Expectations, Nicholas Nickelby, etc. Then there are several large and detailed Victorian Dollhouses. The final museum section is called the Circus and show big top areas, carnival rides(moving and lit), unsrupulous gamers and Wild West Shows.

FRINGE FESTIVAL
Big in Victoria this week is the arrival of the Fringe Festival. This, which we had never heard of is a collection offbeat theater and dance performances. This festival travels around all through Canada, and we were surprised to learn goes even to San Francisco. Many are one man plays. In this festival the performers get all the money from the ticket sales and the whole festival is run on a shoestring budget mainly coming from the $5 every one is supposed to pay to belong to the festival and buy tickets. The show that we saw was called STRAIGHT and was an excellent presentation by a talented young woman. It is about her life, her mother's death, and her repeating her mother's life.

Canadianisms

There are not00 many language differences. On the West Coast, as this is called you hear very little French-you hear more at Sharon Green- and not many things are printed in the 2 languages. There seem to be a couple of French tv stations but there are also Spanish, Mandarin, Cantonese etc.
WASHROOMS
Canadians so use the term "Washroom" consistently where we would use "rest rooms." There are a few other Britishisms I notice such as "mind your step" and of course there are metres and liters,and spelling with extra "u"s and "re"s instead of "er"s.
LOONIES AND TWONIES
Specific to Canadians are terms for the one dollar and two dollar coins which are called Loonies and Twonies respectively. There is a picture of a loon on the one dollar coin and the two dollar coin makes it rhyme by saying twonies.

POUTINE
You find this on menus and it is a Queebec contribution. What it is is french fries, gravy and cheese on top. Nothing sounds more revolting to me. I have been looking for abaked potato since we entered Canada and they don't seem to eat their potatoes baked.

On the Road-Victoria BC

Thursday August 17

BUTCHART GARDENS -over 100 years in bloom

On Vancouver Island in the city of Victoria, (Victoria is the capital of British Columbia) is a National Landmark of Canada call Butchart Gardens. These 55 acres of different gardens is the result of the pet project by Jennie Butchart, wife of a cement manufacturer. Their property was an enormous Lime quarry (lime being what is processed to make cement. The lime excavation created deep barren chasms and Mrs. Butchart set about creating gardens in this area She brought back seeds from all over the world and had many gardeners and access to landscape architects, money being no object. If the limestone was of inferior quality, that area was not mined and this created walls around one sunken garden. There is also a Mediteranium Garden, a Japenese Garden, a Perennial Garden...We had been advised to arrive at the garden in late afternoon so that we could see the garden in daylight and wait around until dark when the garden is transformed with lights. Waiting around was not difficult as sat outside and had a little dinner and then at 7:30 entertainment began on the concert lawn. A large band played music from the 40's and audience members danced quite competently to the waltzes, cha=cha etc.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

On the Road-Vancouver-Stanley Park

Wednesday, August 26

STANLEY PARK, THE GARDEN SPOT OF VANCOUVER

Located at the North end of the city, this park is accessible on foot by following the sea wall of False Creek until its end. The park is 1000 beautiful acres surrounded by the water of English Bay and Burrard Inlet. Contained in the park are other lakes such as Lost Lagoon and Beaver Lake. The park has three beaches, some playgrounds, many trails, a petting zoo, the aquarium; and most beautiful to me the iconic totem poles and and the community gardens. The park has areas set aside for lawn bowling and croquet. A large group os attractive middle-aged women all dressed in white were socializing as a few set up the croquet path. The park has lots of wildlife and we spent a few minutes trying to get good photos of the friendly raccoons who seemed to love posing for pictures on their hind legs. I only got one shot of them on their hind legs as they were faster moving than our camera could shoot.

TOTEM POLES
The garden of totem poles is representatve of the early peoples referred to as Inuit and Coast Salish. The poles are carved of cedar and stand way taller than I am. They depict either historical or mythological events that the people wnted to proclaim in the front of their houses.

COMMUNITY GARDENS
A large area of formal gardens often set in circular displays of high flowers sometimes containing angular grass designs. Every circle is carefully edged around to separate each flower area from the rest of the lawn.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

On the Road-Vancouver

ONTHEROAD-VANCOUVER August 25

Drink in British Columbia
They drink and produce a lot of beer here. There is a chain here called Fogg 'n Suds which has beers aver 100 beers from all over the world. The Fogg is for Phineas Fogg from around the World in 80 days and the Suds is of course beer.

In Iced Teas there is Shaken Iced Tea- a good tea fruit blend from a big coffee chain called BLENZ. In Chinatown there were many signs for Bubble Tea which is an Iced Tea with round fruity candies in the bottom of your glass.

GRANVILLE ISLAND
We took a bus ato get here but it doesn't seem to require a bridge to get there. There is a large portion of False Creek around Granville and many small water taxis to take passengers across the water to parts of the city on the other side of the water. The highlight of GI is the Public Market which seems like an indoor daily farmer's market at which each booth has wonderful products--the food booths we sampled. I got a fabulous scone which had a hint of cheese and salt and no sugar. In the whole state of California I have not found an unsugared scone.

David and I declined to take a ferry in favor of walking along a paved path that follows the creek and atook us into Chinatown.
CHINATOWN
First we visited the Dr. Sun-Yet sun Garden. This is a small type Ming Garden and bult to give a sense of larger space and containing elements of water, Earth, Heaven,nature. There is Ying and Yang all over the place so that opposites which are really complementary can be shone. This is seen in male and female foliage, round stones and skinny rectangular stones, live bamboo and mineral rocks against the bamboo that have an opposite texture from the bamboo. In their temple room they have a view of an Evergreen to symbolize strength and long-life, a bamboo to symbolize flexibility, and a snow cherry (this is a tree that blooms in the China before the snow is gone) to symbolize rebirth.

For lunch we were directed to the Jade Dynasty restauraant for freshly prepared Dim Sum. They were not kidding. You ordered from a menu and then they cooked it and brought it out to you right from the oven in a steamer. You could taste the freshness.

GASTOWN
This was the in place in Vancouver in mid 19th century. It gets its name from a developer here who told long-winded stories. The Original Spahetti Factory is located here and there is old trolley car in the middle of the restaurant that you chose to sit in.

VANCOUVER PUBLIC LIBRARY
David wanted me to get to see the library which is very close to our hotel. It is a block long and 7 stories high. It houses 1.3 million tomes/resources. Even with this gigantic building some collections must be kept on shelves that have no space between one set of bookcases and the next. One must press a button to move the shelves apart and get to the shelves that you need. While some libraries are beginning to have coffee bars in them, this place has a full block long row of little snack stores across from the door where one actually enters to get to the books. Originally, I thought that patrons could eat snacks in parts of the library but a VPL librarian tells me that you cannot eat in the library. When you go through the gates upon entering the book area, they give you shopping baskets like the hand-held kind that you get in food markets. The catalog has my mother's books. They allow non-members to use the Internet for an hour.

ontheroad; Vancouver BC

Monday August 24, 2009
vancouver canada and the Quality Inn
We drive ubti Canada this Morning. We wanted to be certain that we had secured our hotel room in Vancouver baefore we left the U.S. It was difficult to secure a decent place downtown for a decent price at the last minute. There is a section here known as "downtown entertainment district" which describes an area filled with "gentleman's clubs" and I wanted to be sure not to get that area. But I went with Priceline Downtown Vancouver and we ended up with a Quality Inn in a dicey area that we could have probably gotten a better price if we had called them directly.
The parking lot is gated and requires a card to enter. Then in order to get from the hotel down to get to your car, you need a key to open the inside door to the garage. In the garage are all sorts of signs posted such as "report anyone that you see enter the garage not using a key." This has made me realize that valet parking has a tremendous advantage in terms of security. It is a good idea even if you don't like someone else driving your car.

The diwntiwn that we saw has chain stores such as Gap and Banana Republic but the buildings are older. There are some stores undergraound that you enter from a stairway going down from street level. We visited a loarge Vintage Clothing store down there. There are signs all along Robson Street(the shopping street) for Cuban cigars. Outside on the sidewalks are intermittent statues of Eagles painted by artists and financed by businesses. The idea here is rather like the painted cows that we had in the states (most notably Chicago) that will be auctioned off and the money given to charity. The charity for British Columbia is "disabled kids" and other Eagle Products are being sold to raise more money for this. For example, ther is a chocalate eagle that sells for $10.00.

The food we sampled was "big city delicious." Lunch was outside at an Italian Eatery and my Slavaki and David's salad were superb. For dinner we went for Tapas at an attractive red-checkered tablecloth place with garlic plants hanging on the walls. The food was good and the pitcher of Sangria that I ordered to go with it improved boosted the place to very verry good.

Monday, August 24, 2009

On the Road-North Cascades;Skagit Co. WA

August 22, 2009
Northern Cascades-the Stepchild of the National Parks—or—Don’t pee on the Heather.
We drove up to Skagit and booked a cabin in a “resort” called Clark’s Skagit Cabins and RV hookups in the mountains. The founding family, all of whom remain here today (in the middle of nowhere) had a mill and used to house their workers in these cabins. Linoleum floors and handmade curtains, they are clean and have no odors including artificial sprayed scents. There is no maid service during ones stay; and all you can do is place your used wet towels on the porch and any empty rolls of toilet paper or paper towels that you want replaced.

The Skagit resort community appears to be enormous. You can walk for a long time and find different housing, old rusted metal vehicles and tools, sheds for wood, bikes, chairs. On one trail, I came upon 3 mobile homes permanently moored to the land. One had a horse in its yard with surveyer type sticks and rope to serve as a tiny corral. ;There is an enormous round concrete edifice which is probably for collecting water. I tripped over a couple of rabbits that must be pets—a black one and a white one. Across the road is a tiny chapel. It is very little bigger than a kid’s play house. Plastic flowers are planted outside the chapel. The door opened for me and inside were extremely short in length pews and a little table in the front that held a book of a service.

There are no fancy visitor centers here or ranger led walks. We asked the ranger for suggested hikes but he directed us to short walks on level land. There seem to be very many less visitors here. Rangers seem to be mainly there to issue back country camping permits. We waited while 2 young men in front of us got very detailed instructions which including preserving the delicate forest growth. One piece of this information was “don’t pee on the heather because acid in the urine is harmful.”

We drove then to the town of Winthrop. On the way we went up four thousand plus feet and saw the most varied and incredible views. This park might be the best for all of its varied mountain views and how one can drive right up to snow patches left on mountains. As we approached the town of Winthrop we dropped to almost sea level and it got much hotter. Before entering Winthrop we saw a big campground housing a Woodstock revival with some of the same performers. Winthrop when we arrived, appeared to be the cowboy town that I had been promised. However there had been a power failure and most restaurants and stores were closed. It was hot so we turned the car around and returned to our Clark’s Skagit Cabins. We had a bad dinner at their restaurant and then situated ourselves in our cabin for the night.

On the Road;Bainbridge Is. WA

August 21
Took the ferry to Bainbridge Island and walked through the town of Winslow. It is a nice town but I was disappointed because I saw nothing more than the Sound and some shops and restaurants. We could only fill 2 hours there so we came back, had lunch at the 3 girls bakery and got our luggage and left town.

We stopped on our way North to see Jody’s baby Emily. We went on toward the Northern Cascades.
on

ontheroad- Skagit-North Cascades

CONCRETE WA

As you leave Seattle and drive East into Skagit Co and the North Cascades, you first approach a town called CONCRETE. At one time its large wall of concrete semicircles was the largest concrete structure in the U.S. or the world and I believe they made concrete. Now it is all Sat. morning swap meets and flea markets. It is a scocial activity for them and the one we stopped at has music each week of some kind. There is a lunch truck that sets up at one end by some picnic tables. I saw an old couple and their enormously fat grown daughter eating grilled cheese sandwiches out of styrofoam containers; and I wondered if these sandwiches were the highlight of their week.

On the Road-San Juan Islands, WA

SAN JUAN ISLAND


Off the NW Coast of WA is a group of islands, some too tiny for habitation, and all of them beautiful. It must have always been the perfect summer getaway for Seattle residents but when we visited we saw that there were many tourists from lots of places. We had heard and read how beautiful these islands are and we did not want to miss this. When I called for reservations there wer none or way beyond our budget so we decided on a day excursion. You can take your car with you but this may require reservations for the week-end and does require that you arrive 2 hours ahead to put your car in the line for boadrding. David and I decided that we would walk on the ferry as passengers and make our destination FRIDAY HARBOR which is the busiest town and very walkable on the island called itself Sna Juan.

The ferry ride across is picturesque(you see some really tiny islands as well as some larger inhabited ones) and cheap and they seem to always have a naturalist on board to give a talk to those who will listen. We went to hear a man talk about Orca whales--and we happened to see 3 not far from our ferry-as he spoke. To me, the most interesting thing that he said was how different whale pods can pass each other and pay no attention to each other, even though they live in big social groups and keep in sonar contact with their own group all of the time. The J pods around the Puget Sound are happy outgoing and eat only salmon--80% Chinook and 20% Chum. When there is not enough slamon, they starve rather than eat any other fish. The pod that they call the transients eat different kinds of sea mammals and eat no fish. DNA tests show that hey have not interbred in thousands of years; and the mammal eaters have a stronger jaw.

We disembarked on Friday Island and walked around. We started to the nearest beach and then I felt that we should go back to the harborside and get some lunch. High on a bluff overlooking the harbor, we sat at a table at the edge of the bluff. The restaurant is actually called THE BLUFF. The weather was perfect, the food and service extraordinary. As we began to eat, a good bluegrass band began playing form the park below and serenading us through lunch. We liked them so much that we went to hear the rest of the concert after lunch.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

On the Road-Northwest U.S. lodging

August 21, 2009
Lodging in the Northwest August 2009

We are visiting scenic destinations with basically no advance reservation and having no problem finding lodging. For downtown Seattle and for Saturday nights, I have books a day or 2 beforehand. Generally, we pull up to a place that has a coupon for discounted or is written up inAAA and look at the room and choose before we book.

Difference between the 2 diamond hotel and the diamond.
We only stayed in one four diamond and that was by accident because I wanted to be downtown Seattle and figured this to be a pricier area so I put in $125 for a three diamond place on Priceline and they gave us a 4 diamond Shearaton. But from earlier experiences I can say that nicer places a high sheet threed count, more abundant towels, elevators that are always at your floor. There are glass glasses, ceramic cups and henerally a lot less plastic in your room. You get a bell man, a concierge, and doormen. There is good food at the dining room or surrounding restaurants.

The two diamond places always have in room wi-fi, a microwave, a tv, a refrigerator and a free breakfast; which is not always true of the fancier hotels and inns. The 2 dia;mond places are sometimes in more industrial areas. We have not stayed in any chain consistently getting 2 diamonds from AAA but the smaller establishments with 2 diamonds can be fine. It seems that the AAA gives chains the same ratings for very different places. For example, all the Best Westerns get 3 diamonds but lodging places vary greatly. The Red Lions often have 3 diamonds and they seem to be a better value than other 3 diamond places.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

On the Road-Seattle-Experience Music Project

Thursday, August 20, 2009

EMP-Experience Music Project

This interactive museum of American popular music is set in a building shaped like a broken guitar—as it was set up to honor Jimi Hendrix, a Seattle born celebrity. It is large and made up of many nooks and crannies to hear, mix, and record your own music.

There seem to be endless screens where one can hear anecdotes, solos, histories, and stories.

There is a large room devoted to Jimi. His life, his music, and stories on video from people who worked with him are found in this room. In one corner his video concerts are going continuously. In another spot you get to hear the engineer show all of the different band sections, how he mixes them and then you can try mixing them yourself.

In a large venue is a big screen that hourly plays pieces from Woodstock in honor of Woodstock’s 40th anniversary.

Upstairs is a big recording studio divided into recording rooms and pods to try out and play different instruments. You can even get basic lessons in these pods. Me, totally inexperienced got to find the C notes and play scales. The piano keys have teeny red dots that light up to show one what to play. There were guitars and drums to try out.
In the center of this room is a large circular flat table that digitally has many instruments and you can play them all by tapping on the right picture.

There is also a recording studio where a visitor can tell the museum his/her own special music story.

SCIENCE FICTION MUSEUM AND HALL OF FAME
Adjacent to the music museum, this sky and space décor gives the visitor the right ambience. Interestingly to us, the genre was originally called Scientifiction. This is a good name as the word can be broken into scientific fiction but I imagine it was too hard to pronounce so the term “science fiction” took hold.

As soon as the scientific method of observation was developed in Western culture, some fiction writers began to incorporate the scientific method into their stories(e.g.Verne) The science fiction asked the question “what if” and captivated the human spirit. Pulp fiction magazines less scientific but featuring those Big Brass Boobed ladies on the covers. In the forties, the sf was all around hard science but in the 59s and 60s some of it dealt with soft sciences like psychology and ecology.

The museum has movies, costumes and realia from Flash Gordon, Planet of the Apes, then Star Trek. There are actual and copies of E.T characters. George Lucas came along and made monumental leaps with his special effects and Star War stories.

NORDSTROMS
This magnificent department store opened in Seattle in 1901 as a narrow long store whose walls were stacked to the ceiling with shoes and salesmen stood by ladders ready to leap for a pair of shoes for a customer. The flagship store is in downtown Seattle. Outside they have a walk of Seattle Heroes such as Dale Chihuley, Bill Gates, Paul Allen athletes, and many civic minded philanthropists who paid for city stadiums, museums, etc. These are all down with artistic signatures and shoe imprints. For example, the young woman who led the team to the Soccer championship nationally had imprints of her soccer shoes and one society lady had imprints of a pair of high heels.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

On the Road-Seattle-Pioneer Square

Wed. August 19

I really appreciate being in a hotel in the center of town because we can walk gto everything.

PIONEER SQUARE AND THE UNDERGROUND
The original city was built on marshy land near the Pugent Sound. When ;more people arrived and when Thomas Crapper of Seattle invented the flush toilet, the sewage would go down and then come back up when the tide came in. There was no where for the sewage to drain to so the solution that came up with was to raise all buildings at least one story so the front door would be on the 2nd level. Merchants could not afford to wait for this project to be completed so they maintained shops at ground level and any pedestrians had to climb a ladder to get to the street.

On the tour of the Underground you can see the old walls and some leftover trashed items. There were no windows below and the o nly natural light that came in was from(and still is from) skylights which lie in today's sidewalks above. On the current sidewalk, one can walk on top of these skylights

There are many original buildings located in this area. The oldest continuously operating tavern, the oldest restaurant, the first "skyscraper."

COLUMBIA BUILDING
This is now the tallest building in Seattle. It is twice the height of the Space Needle. You you go to its top and you see the Space Needle as a small building on one side. You see Rainier and Bainbridge Island and everything.

On the Road-Seattle-

PIKE PLACE MARKET

Located close to Puget Sound, this is a collection of many buildings on many levels which shops that sell just about anything. Most notable is the fish market with huge salmon and other fish on ice. When a customer makes a request for a fish, the men scream out and toss those fish around to each other to get to the customer. Also in the market are many produce places with giant fruit and flower arrangements. Our favorite stops have been at the bakeries like the 3 girls bakery. This market was set up near the end of the 19th c so that farmers could bring their goods directley to the public and cut out middlemen so decrease the cost of food.



SPACE NEEDLE

Origninally built for the 1962 World's Fair, it was the tallest building in Seattle. This is no longer true but the Space Needle still have the rights to the view so nothing can be buuilt to obsure the Puget Sound, the bays or the views of the city and outlying areas. One can feel the top floor observation move and bend with the winds and it has withstood the all of the Earthquakes since.

Also built for the 1962 Fair was the Science Center which at the time showed the new microwave oven and the touch tone phone. For this Fair, the city built the first monorail that was large enough to actually transport passengers.

OLYMPIC SCULPTURE GARDEN
A lovely park with seating to view the Sound and the sculptures. The biggest piec-or most noticeable is a Calder animal looking sculpture. Very interesting to me were the office supply sculptures which included a circular eraser with the attached brush and a file box.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

On the Road-Mount Rainier

Monday

We drove to Mt. Rainier which, like Mt. St. Helen's takes a long time to get to as it is in an isolated area. At first when you enter it looks like lovely woods and then you see and can hike to and over water streams and falls. Mount Rainier is also a volcano, and altho I have not heard of a major eruption, there are plenty of uprooted tree parts lying amidst rocks and sand and that has most likely been carried down by the water.

When you get up to 5000 feet, then you begin to get glimpses of the snow covered and in other spots vegetation covered mountain peaks and it is truly beautiful. It takes a while to get to 5000 as it requires a more than forty mile drive. We hiked up Comet Falls Trail and began a few other trails.

We arrived at our fancy hote, the Sheraton in Seattle and right across from our favorite restaurant, the Cheesecake Factory. The hotel is really pissing David off--one reason being that they don't have a free wi-fi connection in the rooms--only in athe lobby.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

On the Road-Mount St. Helens

Sunday August 16th



MOUNT ST. HELEN



These national and state parks for St. Helens are isolated and take a long time to get to because they sit in the middle of miles of Weyerhauser owned forests. . I had thought that I learned all about volcanoes in Hawaii but it turns out that Hawaii has shield volcanoes and Mt. St. Helens has a different kind of volcano. Mt. St. Helens carries a rock lava and all the lava rocks contain explosive gases that explode after the rock s are released when the volcano erupts.

The forerunners of these volcanoes are increasingly large numbers of nearby earthquakes. These thousands of earthquakes are set off by the lava percolating around inside the mountain. Another indication for this one was that the top of the mountain began to grow and develop a big bump on one side. They were expecting it to blow but they had no idea that it would be so devastating.

One of the earthquakes I believe triggered perhaps the biggest landslide ever. Then the volcano erupted and all the gases began exploding. Trees were uprooted and became part of the landslide. All the water from Spirit Lake was blown up a hill and came back twice the width of the lake that it was before. The ash from the volcano spread eastward for many miles. Uprooted trees were strewn all down the mountain and some are still there. Trees that were too far away to be totally uprooted were singed leaving a dead forest of standing trees.

The ground was covered with ash and people were trapped (even tho they could have evacuated) Rescue helicopters bravely went up and saved a hundred and some but 53 were killed or lost.

The volcano erupted on May 18, 1980 and the land is coming back to the point where it can support life. Weyerhauser has groves of trees labeled wit hthe date at which they were replanted. Vegetation is returning to the pumice. And the best sign of life is the Elk who have returned to this formerly lifeless area. You can see the Elk grazing(if you have binoculars or better eyes than I have).



on the road, Columbia River Gorge, Mt. Hood

Saturday August 15

MT. HOOD
Yesterday as we drove up to the Timberline Lodge, we were watching for the Timberline as we approaced. The Evergreens got shorter and shorter and some trees had only growth on one side(probably because of strong winter winds coming from one direction). The Lodge is enormous--actually there is a day lodge and overnight lodge. The building was oringinally a WPA project and it is kept as close to 1930's appearance as possible. The walls in the guest room halls are all Maple. Wooden stircase handles are carved from reclaimed wood and made into animal figures from the early WPA workers.) They have put in a pool and a spa and ski accomadations and several restaurants and gift shops.

None of this is of any importance compared to the magnificent views of Mt. Hood with its snow patches and its majestic peaks. I was interested to see the large number of wildflowers on this sandy soil. There were lots of skiers and kids with these--are they snowboards --that you stand on and about the size of a snowboard. They not only go down the mountain on these but they have snowball fights as they fly down. There are plenty of wipe-outs but no one seems to mind falling. David and I walked the steep mile to the top of the slope. We sat and admired the view and the quiet--there was basically no one walking up these paths--they mainly did the ski lift to get there.

Last night we had dinner at the "1911 Poor Farm." This is 39 acres of what was begun as a poor farm where people with nowhere else to go could live. The able-bodied farmed and fed everyone. The property was bought and converted by 2 restauant entrepeneurs who buy up old schools and such and convert them to restaurants. It is now called McMeniman's Edgefield. This property has several buildings, 2 golf courses, a winery, a distillery, a brewery--they make all of their alcohic drinks. The main builing looks much like an old boy's school. Many of the rooms for lodging gave no private baths but each lodger is provided with a bathrobe which many walk around in with bare feet. They visit the bars and restaurants in his outfit.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

On the Road-Columbia River Gorge

BFriday August 14

Hiked to Multnomah Falls- The paved trail with 11 switchbacks climbed up with a beautiful almost shear drop on one side with visions of the great river and the mountains to look at. You see the Falls at various heights. There are many waterfalls along here due to the power of the river water breaking through and etching crevices in the mountain rocks and flowing down. We have now begun the old people on a trail and people pass us.

Bonneville Dam-This is an enormous project by the army corps of engineers. The water comes in strongly anyway and they use giant turbines to turn the water and generate the power. The turbines use magnetic forces to build a high power level and resisters contain the power as it is delivered to individual users. They are mindul of their fish--salmon- and have devised new turbines less likely to catch juvenile fish and at a vulnerable spot on the trail for the fish, the Dam slides hem covered to a spot where seabirds are less likely to get at them. There are a large number of fish ladders (60?) all about a foot and half higher than the one before to
allow the salmon to swim upstream. Since the fish like to stay low in the water, you can't really see them by looking down at the steps so the Dam has built windows underground that allow visitors to view all of the salmon.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

On the Road-Portland OR

JThurs
Portland's streets are often covered with begging teens with cardboard signs saying things like TRAVELING, BROKE, AND HUNGRY and suvh edding down for the night on the street. Their are a few old people also begging. There is a young man in this city who gets on and offthe light rail trying to sell candy bars. There is aparently a significant Hispanic population as all the public transportation announcements in English, than Sanishhh.and atleast 2 tv stations are in Spanish.

JAPANESE GARDENS-this is an exremely peaceful place with the sounds of running water going throughout the gardens. Muted bells and soft music add to the serenity of the green gardens with murky ponds to reflect the vegetation. The trees are trained to go in ways to symbolize welcome or woman, etc. Certain prayer stones and evil stones and flat garden of raked stones and to the majestic area.

OREGON MUEUM OF HISTORY- Shows the development ofOregon and how the poor and drougt plaqued farmers took to the Oregon with ideas of free fertile land and inexhustable salmon and pelts, timber,and mining.

CLAYMATION- There is a temporary exibit about Oregonian Wll Winton. This fellow in college began working with simple modeling clay to create animations. While clay had een used in early animation film but was given up in favor of the 2 dimmensional animations. Fils of how he creates the character from molds, creates the body movement, and reates the dialog are great.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

On the Road-Portland OR

Today we got to Portland. There is a gigantic new and used book store called Powell's that they say is a full block long with different levels but I can't swear to how big it really is. They color all of their book sections different colors and intersperse used books with new books. There are 3 book stores on the next block and then another independent used book store a few blocks down.

We walked on the Wilamette River walk. For dinner we met Judy and Bill and went to the landmark fish restaurant in Portland called Jakes. We all loved iour food and drink and company.

There is a light train rail here that is free in certain areas of the downtown.

ontheroad- -Word origins

Jetty- Jetty comes from the Old French meaning to throw out. It is the same word root as jettison meaning to throw things overboard to lighten

HARDPACK-This word seems to have begun in 1967 to apply to hard packed snow. Now bikers use the word for hard-backed soil making a more solid trail--and Oregonians that I met yesterday used it to refer to the area of beach sand close to the ocean's edge that is firm because of the water it is holding

SKID ROW
They tell us on the Seattle history tours that a saw mill operator would cut and slide his wood down the the steep road to the Puget Sound. The roadway became known as "skid row" and when that street became a spot for the disenfranchised the people associated that street name of "skid row" for the rund down section of town.

ontheroad- OR coast-Word origins

Jetty- Jetty comes from the Old French meaning to throw out

ontheroad- OR coast

Tuesday Aug 11

MARIANA' S TRENCH We spent another day in Newport. At the Mark Hatfield Marine Museum-connected with the U of O we saw some video of unersea earthquakes. They bounce up like foaming shaving cream but do not blowreally far becaues of the intense water pressure. They are able to study the deepest part of the ocean--the Mariana Trench- which is a bit deeper under water than the peak of Mt Everest is above sea level. They don't have equipment that allows divers to withstand the pressure of going down so low but they have remote operated vehicles that go down low with their cameras. It is totally dark down tahere there but they find that life continues and plants live off of chemosynthesis (because there in no sun for photosynthesis). The fish get around from feel and maybe sonar. Some of them are totally white because they don't need to camoflage themselves because there is no light.
JETTY POWER- We visted South Beach State Park and walked the trail to the South Jetty. Remember these structures were laid perpendicular to the shore to creat a safe harbor for ships. As a result of this they caught debris and sand. This sand builds up the shoreline. Our path to the ocean was clearly marked with where the shoreline was in 1899, in 940, and in 1974. It is a good walk between the markers.

We viisited a lighthouse in the NewEngland style in which the keeper and his family lived in a house at the bottom of the light. This is a pretty fancy house and has been restored to a glory.

There doesn't seem to be any immigrant population here. David noticed that all of the chambermaids are young locals. Local population that we meet as well as some Minnesotans and Montanans have more traditional values than I had considered.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

ontheroad- OR coast -

Monday August 10

Yesterday we saw Yachats and Newport and I noticed that all along these areas are long coastal beaches with most lodgings being all oceanfront rooms at more reasonable prices than I would ever expect for real on-the ocean rooms where one slides open the glass door to the balcony and listens day and night to the ocean rolling in and morning seabirds.

We did some dune climbing at state parks seashores. These dunes can be up to 500 feet high and while we didn't climb these, I struggled up some fairly steep sand and would never had made it had there not been beach grass to grab on to and pull myself up. We saw some open trucks taking tourists on vehicle powered trips up the dunes.

Ar the coastal trail at Yachats, we came upon a fine attached in cement to the ground binoculars to look out of the ocean. The plaque beneath it read "Jim's Telescope" in memory of James P. Bates--His Favorite View.

Monday, August 10, 2009

ontheroad- OR coast, vacation, lighthouses

Sunday Aug 9

We left Bandon and stopped at the Coquille River lighthouse.

This as many of them is located at the point where the river meets the Pacific Ocean. I had thouhgt that the lighthouses were up to protect ships from foundering on ;nearby rocks; but is eems that many of them were there to show the mariners where they were and that they were at a safe harbor if they wanted one. Ships had mariner maps that showed each lighthouse and the captain could just count them and always know where he was. The Oregon Coast has lots of beach grass that sit on dunes. I always noted this on Cape Cod but not on South Jersey or FL beaches so I was wondering if it were unique to Cape Cod--but it was noted here that these grasses are not native vegetation but were brought in to hold the sand to keep the sand from blowing all over the coastal towns. They hold the sand quite well and form dunes of the sand blowing away from the oean. We visited the Haceta lighthouse above Florence. We also saw a lighthuse in Menocino CA. In none of these lighthouses did the lighthouse keeper's family live in the lighthouse but had houses built (as well as the assistant and assistant lighthouse keepers family having houses). For my library friends, lets note that part of the quarterly supplies dropped off for lighthuse keepers was a rotating library collections of 40 books at a time to each station.

We spent time talking to people along the way. I spoke with a Texan who had lived 9 months in Carmel being trained to speak Sicilian Italian as part of his job in the FBI. We met an older man from West VA traveling alone and a family from Vancouver WA whose kids participated in national history day contests.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

ontheroad- OR coast

Fri day Aug. 7

We spent the morning with Bill and Judy and then drove 4 boring hours out to the coast. The scenery on the drive were ttall trees but if flet dull. We arrived at Bandon-by-the-sea about 3:45. It doesn't look like much-ther is Old Town by the marina and the rest is rather spread out along Beach Loop Rd. It was hard to find a decent room here. At last we stumbled on to a Best western who an oceanfront suite that hadn't yet rendted so they gave it to us for the standard room rate. It is one of these oceanfront rooms that is great far from the ocean. In order to get to the ocean we had to walk down and cross the road and find a path marked Beach access which led through vegetation a distance down to a very wide clear beach of very fine sand. Finding our way out of the beach was tricky as they had no sign "road access" so we had to wend our way tall grasses and maybe poison oak--I will know that soon.

Friday, August 7, 2009

ontheroad-Ashland OR, vacation

Friday Aug. 7

Before we left our motel in Crescent City, we wentto the Continental breakfast. There I met a student from La Entrata who ecognized me from subbing in his class; and I remembered him. We met a nice couple from Livermore CA.

We drove into Ashland about noon and it was love at first sight for me. The theaters were beautiful in their plaza. The Elizabethan theater was a thrill for me as it looked like a fine replica of the Globe. We got matinee tickets for Clifford Odetts "Paradise Lost" and it was superbly done and we had great seats. I loved to look at all the people walking around carrying their reading book and looking cerebral. Surrounding the theaters is Lithia Park, a beautiful park with amenities and parking for us theater goers. Judy and Bill are here and we trouble hooking up but we will meet them tomorrow for breakfast at "Morning Glory."

Ontheroad-Northern CA

We spent some time in Ferndale talking to Judy and Bill who turned out to be the best things about Ferndale. We drove to "the city" Eureka. Eureka seemed filled with sown and out characters and dilapidated buildings for home and business. We did pass a fancy private club so I guess everyone is not down and out.

Outside of Eureka is Fort Humboldt. You see the Humboldt name a lot up here and the county is Humboldt but apparently Humboldt was just a guy who was able to see Lake Humboldt through the incessant fog so they named it after him. The fort was another one of these army forts set up to control the Indians.

Lumber was a big business around here and early pioneers could see the value in the lumber of the redwoods but had not technology to cut the trees. In the fort they displayed the equipment created by resourceful entrepeneurs to cut the trees to move them with pulley system and steam engines developed to power the pulleys.

A little further along we visited a Redwood state park which provided a beautiul trail up through abundant trees and ferns.

We stopped for the night in Crescent City (shaped like a crescent in the middle of a bay and the ocean. This is the home of the biggest American Tsunami in the US and half of its town was destroyed. There are still tsunami warnings in this area.

We stopped at the Best Western again because it had 3 diamonds in triple A but the available rooms had higher prices so we went to a lower rated Lighthouse next door and it quite a bit nicer tahn the triple diamond Best Western that se stayed in our first night.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

On the Road-Northern CA

Wed. August 5. After a wonderful breakfast at the Benbow Inn, we drove North along the touted "Avenue of the giants" of Redwood Trees. The trees are big but on the whole, we would not missed much if we just stayed on 101. We made our way to the "Victorian Town" of Ferndale, which we found quite boring. David and I kept checking our watches in anticipation of the wine and cheese hour and the time kept being the same time. They do have a Memorial Day Weekend race in which local sculptors solder together vehicles that look like some animal or dragon and put some bicycle type thing inside to allow the pedal power to drive the vehicle. They have a museum of some of the winners.

The wine and cheese hour finally did come and we people from our home town, i.e. Philadelphia and some Family Law attorney who had stories to tell.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Ontheroad-Northern CA

Tuesday August 4-

It is quite difficult to pick out a hotel if you have never been to the area. We picked the Best Western that had an ocean view. It did but the building was across the highway from the ocean. The beachcomber was in the same price range and theie ocean views were actually on the beach.

There is glass beach in Fort Bragg. It used to be the town dump but the only relics from that period are pieces from the glass bottles which have been "sanded" smooth.

We walked around the artsie town of Mendocino. Lunch was the best food we have had since we started out. We went there because there is a guy walking around Sharon Heights wearing a tee shirt advertising Pattersons. The only thing that went wrong at that restaurant was daddy came out of the bathroom unbeknowst to me and then after a really long time myself and two men who were helping me kept banging on the men's room door. We made a quick exit when we discovered so we not have to meet the man from the toilet.

We took a windy(curvy) road(pretty at first but boring after the first half hour). Our destinatioln was the chandelier tree which you drive your car through a hole in the trunk. The woman in the SUV in front of got stuck but our Civic made if just fine.

There is beautiful Inn in this area that the Dinwiddie's had recommended that we see but probably would not want to stay in because it is expensive. David wanted me to have a room I could feel good about(one that has glass and china in the room instead of paper/plastic and thick towels. They had a special mini garret room which was not much more than a comfort Inn. We are he)ar in this wooded setting with flowered wallpaper, matching curtains and colonial repro furnitue.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Ontheroad-Northern CA

David and I left Redwood City, CA yesterday August 3. We took 280 thru San Fran and got over to coastal Rte when we could. We met cousin Janet in Jenner for a few minutes in a town called Jenner on the Russian River. I knew this river to have wineries connected with it but I did not know where it got its name.

The Russians who had colonies in Alaska came down to Sonoma county to set up an outpost in effort to grow crops to feed their Alaskan people and to hunt the rich pelts of the river otter. They brought `14 cannons and some Aleuts(mixed race native and Caucasian were called Creoles)and with other native peoples built a very impressive early 19th century fortress (fort for short). At caddy-corner ends were lookout towers so that attackers by land or sea cdould be easily spotted. I believe that neither the Spanish or the Indians tried tdo attack them. They did well with furs but could not make a go of agriculture.

We stopped for lunch at Timber Cove Inn which is on the water and pretty but the food is mediocre. Amzingly we met friends Sue and Ken as we pulled into the parking lot so our lunch was made special by their company.

In our Silicon Valley area this place called Sea Ranch is known as a big vacation spot so I wanted to stop and see it alon rat1. We did not see all that much. There are private roads off of rte 1 that lead down to homes on the water. Occassionally, tahere is a road down to a public access beach. For miles and miles this is it--houses on the beach and nothing else. At last we came to a town where one could buy something.

By now it was getting late so we skipped seeing Mendocino yesterday and came straight to our Best Western in Fort Bragg. This Fort Bragg was an army fort that was set here to keep an eye on the Indian reserfvation. The commanding officer named it after his former commander whose name was Bragg. They have a redwood tree slice. The tree was felled in 1942 and germinated in 190(the sign said) so it is quite big. The rest of the town looks poorish with lots of biker types. We ate in the leading Pizza bar--piachis, a place that is mobbed with drinkers and served us some poor pizzas.